A rebranding case in the USA: the American company Victoria's Secret

The revolution stems from years of criticism towards the outdated beauty standards proposed by the lingerie brand and its lack of racial, body, and gender diversity

It is proof that anyone looking to start a company in the United States must listen to their target audience

Retail sales of lingerie are growing worldwide, with an estimated 6.2% growth between 2021 and 2022. However, the net sales of Victoria's Secret, the world's most well-known and coveted American women's lingerie brand, have only been declining over the past two years. In 2020, the company earned 20% less than in 2019, the year when its longtime CMO resigned following the launch of Victoria's Secret's first openly transgender model, Valentina Sampaio.

In fact, the brand's intolerance towards diversity and inclusivity has never been a secret. In 2018, former CMO Ed Razek told Vogue that the brand was not interested in hiring transgender or plus-size models for its annual Fashion Show, and the "angels," or Victoria's Secret's top model ambassadors, have always represented an ideal body type for women that is highly desirable but difficult to emulate.

The case of Victoria's Secret demonstrates that U.S. brands survive by reflecting the needs and values of their target audience in America

For decades, Victoria's Secret was known for its beautiful top models, including Heidi Klum, Adriana Lima, and Sara Sampaio, its multimillion-dollar Fantasy Bras, and the dazzling fashion shows that became an essential part of the company's brand image. Nonetheless, in the face of inclusive offerings from brands like Rihanna's SavageXFenty (which, let us remember, is currently worth a billion dollars), the perfect and unattainable beauty promoted by Victoria's Secret has come to a halt.

In short, younger American consumers who are more attuned to the values conveyed by brands have shifted their purchasing preferences towards more inclusive brands that embrace the so-called "female gaze," as opposed to the "male gaze," which is the way things (or, in our case, women) are commonly viewed and described.

 

In the USA, Millennials and Gen Z make a cognitive and emotional investment when interacting with a brand

Victoria's Secret has understood this and has abandoned the Angels to meet the demands of the new generations

Last week, the American lingerie company announced the "Victoria's Secret Collective," a diverse group of seven women celebrated for their achievements rather than their measurements, attempting to ride the wave of body positivity. The American market is indeed striving harder to include all body types and focus advertising on body positivity: not surprisingly, 24% of American consumers have expressed appreciation for the shift towards plus-size models in lingerie ads, a sign of a genuine change in cultural norms in the United States.

The group includes: Megan Rapinoe, a soccer player and gender equity activist, aged 35; Eileen Gu, a 17-year-old Chinese skier set to compete in the Olympics; Priyanka Chopra Jonas, a 38-year-old Indian actress and tech investor; and Paloma Elsesser, a 29-year-old plus-size model who already boasts a Vogue cover.

These women will have the mission to give a new image to the brand of lingerie, redefining the concept of "sexy" in a new and hopefully relatable way for an increasingly broad segment of consumers. Indeed, asking whether a brand can change is the wrong question. What we should ask is: what does the brand want to become? Because only then can we conclude that Victoria's Secret will have to work hard to break away from the image accumulated over many years in the lingerie market, adapting to the new values of its target audience and strengthening the lost brand engagement.

Only time will tell if Victoria's Secret's mission has succeeded in the USA. In the meantime, we are curious to see what the legendary brand's next moves will be.